fashion from my eyes..: March 2011

As a continuation to my earlier blog 'EXOTIC JUNKIES' ..i present to you some more insight on the fashion trends to follow this spring summer. talking in depth about some of them, their origination and the life cycle.

HAREM PANTS/ DROP CROTCH PANTS

The popular trend of spring summer 2011, drop crotch trousers or harem pants. These high and gathered waists, slouchy cut silhouettes have had their origin in India, on the same lines as the traditional salwar. Harem pants came to the west in mid 1800’s and American feminists like Amelia Bloomer adopted the comfortable look and called them ‘bloomers’. Daring women who didn't want to wear skirts back then, the blousy bloomers symbolized freedom. Not only did they make a strong statement, but also women found them more attractive than any masculine alternative available at the time.

Bloomers by Amelia Bloomer (earliest forms of harem's in the west)

Harem pants scored a fashion victory in 1911 when Parisian women started wearing the Eastern-inspired designs of couturier Paul Poiret, known for liberating women from the corset. His new discovery was called "jupe culotte".

Paul Poiret's initial 'jupe culotte' sketches

Paul Poiret's actual versions of Harem's

Yul Brynner brought the trousers to silver screen in the "The King and I" in 1956, but they didn't appear in fashion for decades, until Yves Saint Laurent resurrected them in the 1970s.

Yul Brynner in 'The King N I' showcasing harem's on silver screen

1970's Harems in fashion Magazines & YSL harems

These harem pants were popularized again by Mc Hammar in the 80’s and thus came to be known as hammar pants. According to him they gave freedom for dancing, it accentuated movement and created a unique fashion statement. Critics considered it quite an unflattering trend of the time.

Mc Hammer in 'Hammar Pants' on stage

The style made a come back in 2009 where designers like temperley London ,chloe, just cavali, paul smith,Ralph Lauren,Derek lam,blumarine all constructed their versions of the harem pants. It was then that it gained popularity amongst masses and Macy’s; Net-a-porter and other brands housed a version of harem pants. It seemed like these were meant for the runway and everyone was awed by their look and construction, these draped trousers were eye catchy after a whole skinny jeans era. These were an anti fashion statement, you can either pull them off stylishly or if not you could look like a walking sac.

HAREMS IN 2008

Blumarine Chole

Chloe Just Cavalli Paul Smith

Temperly London Ralph Lauren

The trend has transformed and it now comes back to us in 2011 in a more commercial and wearable form. By giving them a trouser style or fold on the bottom, experimentation with drapes, fabric and texture, these certainly appeal to a wide audience. High street Brands French connection, zara, asos, river island, forever 21,warehouse etc. and also designers like Gucci, Vivienne westwood, vera wang, DVF, Donna Karen, Zac posen, cavalli etc. have stayed true to the loose draped styles and re-done them for spring summer 2011.

HAREMS IN 2011

High Street Brands

French Connection New Look

Zara Topshop

Topshop H&M

Designer Collections

Carolina Herrera Donna Karen DVF

Gucci Just Cavalli Vivienne Westwood

Vera Wang Zac Posen Yves Saint Lauren

Mens Harems/Drop crotch trousers, Haider Ackermann, 2011

Sabah Khan ,India fashion week, 2011

For people, who are afraid to try the look..here are few tips and tricks to make them work.

Don't choose harem pants that are too fussy or baggy in the middle divide, especially if you are short.
Harem pants in light drapey fabrics are the most flattering. Try silk or cotton jersey.
Set off the bagginess of the trouser with high-heels as these elongate the legs or alternatively some styles of harem pants can work with gladiator sandals.
Stay slim on top to counter-balance the fullness of the pants. Wear fitted tops or a clean-cut shirt or blouse.
Add a belt and jewellery to create drama for an evening look.
Short jacket or an asymmetric style can be perfect to enhance your look. But make sure to keep it snug.

Try experimenting with various celebrity looks like:

Diane Kruger & Gwen Stefani

JLO & Kim Kardashian

There are a number of variations on the harem theme so keep trying until you find one that flatters your shape.

TREND: JUMPSUITS

Jumpsuits: one might think, especially men that they are the most unflattering and figure concealing attire but fashion couturiers have proven this wrong. Once these overall’s were used as protective and shielding devices by skiers, racers, janitors, astronauts, skaters, skydivers etc. to accommodate machine age due to their convenience.

Jumpsuits for work

The garment was initially considered as unisex futuristic attire since it worn by sci-fi characters in movies and cartoon shows for e.g star wars therefore, like any other trend this it where it sparked. By the late 1960’s, jumpsuits reached the high fashion segment. While it was not yet socially acceptable for women to wear pants but jumpsuits were worn as active sport and work wear until the mid-1960s. These powerful experiences and images became key references in later fashion interpretations. From flight suits to movie costumes, to sport and performance uniforms all utilized the distinctive qualities of the one-piece design to enhance that activity or create a powerful visual effect.

Star Wars Si-Fi suits

Yes, its true that glamorous versions have been used earlier on stage by Elvis Presley,Mick jagger and also in the form of shiny catsuits by theatre and stage performers. In the 70’s, jumpsuits were dramatized and made flamboyant by Elvis Presley with styles like ‘chicken rib’, ‘Chinese dragon’, ‘Aloha eagle’, ‘ Black Spanish flower’ and many more.

Elvis Presley and his glamorous jumpsuits

After being absent for several years, the jumpsuit made a come back as a forerunner in spring/summer 2008 fashion trends and ever since then, it has been gaining popularity and climbing the fashion cycle. With celebs like Brooke Shields, Rihanna, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Gwyneth Paltrow,Selma Blair and designers like paul smith, Gucci, stella Mcartney, Alexander wang, Jeremy liang; showcasing the jumpsuit look on the runway and red carpets has been an inspiration for all to experiment with the look.

Celebs 2008, Come back of jumpsuits

Brooke Shields at Tony Awards-08 Rihanna Gwyneth Palthrow

Jumpsuits on Runway 2008

Paul Smith Gucci Stella Mcartney

Stella Mcartney Alexander Wang Jeremy Liang

Innovation has taken this simple garment to a next level; Drapes, texture, fabric, colours, lengths and other unimaginable details have made jumpsuits adaptable for every body type and occasion. One can choose from a lavish satin and silk drape for an evening or red carpet to simple denim or a cotton print for a day lunch. This trend is hitting its peak this summer of 2011.

Casual jersey Jumpsuits

Floral Jumpsuits Minimal jumpsuits wide legged jumpsuits

The jumpsuit popped up on so many different spring runways it’s hard to keep track of all of their appearances. High street brands, designers, stylists, celebrities are all wearing their favorite picks. Few popular ones being, H & M, zara, New look, frech connection, mango, in the high street fashion category and Ayesha deepala, Rohit Gandhi and Rahul khanna, Atsu Sekhose, Malini Ramani, pankaj and NIdhi in Indian designers category and Roberto cavalli, Donna Karen, D&G, DVF, Elie Saab, Gucci, Marchesa, YSL amongst the international designers category.

High Fashion Bramds, 2011

H&M All saints Monsoon

French Connection Mango Newlook

Indian Designers,india Fashion week, 2011

Atsu Sekhose Pankaj & Nidhi Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna

Rajesh Pratap Malini Ramani

International Fashion weeks, 2011

Alexander wang Roberto Cavalli D & G

DKNY DVF Ellie Saab

Jean Paul Gaultier Gucci

Just Cavalli Lanvin Marc by Marc Jacobs

Yves Saint Lauren Marchesa

We can choose between various styles mainly:

Overalls in several fabrics denim, jersey, cotton, linen etc.wear it with a belt or with a cropped jacket or with a boy friend blazer or just with platform heels for the day.
Evening with complicated detailing like drapes, tucks, belts and with fabric choices ranging from chiffons and georgettes to satins.
Tailored to wear to work and look serious in crisper sharper fabrics and dress it up with accessories perfect for an evening out after work.
Loose and flowy ones are a good way to beat the heat. Choose from floral prints, to whites to wide legged to viscose jersey stripes.
Sporty can be from a playsuit to tubes to zips to hoodies to simple short jerseys. Team it with knee high socks and sneakers or just wear it casually with flip-flops for a shopping day.

To understand how to work with jumpsuits, use celebs as reference:

Celebs and their styles

Beyonce Chloe Sevigny Diana Vickers

Vera Wang Tyra Banks stylist- Rachel Zoe

Play them up or play them down its totally upto you, own this versatile item of clothing and enjoy wearing it in many different ways. It’s a must have purchase and you wont regret it.

TREND: POP COLOURS